New Zealand: Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit…

There was a time when New Zealand was just about Sauvignon Blanc. There was little else in fact, pitched to the world in a burgundy-shaped bottle emblazoned most notably with a grey, almost misty-cove like image… The contents of the bottle pushed the virtues of the Sauvignon Blanc varietal to the world in a way which at that point in time had never been seen before, delivering flavours and textures that were inconceivable to an audience whose only prior exposure to Sauvignon was likely to have been a simple, flinty Sancerre. In fact, given the lack of varietal labelling in France, it is quite likely that they did not even realise they had been drinking Sauvignon Blanc at all! Density in the glass, a room full of gooseberry aromatics and a taste more about purity of fruit than the oak chips delivered by most mainstream Australian Chardonnays at the time; it was the dawning of a new day for New Zealand wine and it is fair to say that they have never looked back.

Sauvignon was, and still is, a variety which divides opinion. Its very status as a noble varietal is often brought into question due to the general inability of its wines to age well. It is a curious beast marauding and dominating the market like few other varieties do – it’s a love or hate style, with a split seemingly about 50/50. Sauvignon Blanc… the Marmite of the wine world.

But New Zealand has come a long, long way since the early days of Cloudy Bay et al. Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit and Marlborough is not the only region.

With an emphasis on lighter-styled reds and aromatic whites, Syrah from Gimblet Gravels in Hawkes Bay, world class Chardonnay from Kumeu River and the emergence of regions such as Martinborough in the North Island excelling in Pinot Noir have set New Zealand on fire in international markets.

Elsewhere, let us not forget the quality and value to be found from Waipara on the east coast of the South Island, together with the world’s most southerly wine-producing region; Central Otago. Here the country’s potential for world class Pinot Noir is arguably at its greatest. For a region which barely existed on the international wine map as recently as the mid-nineties, ‘Central’ really does represent the calling-card for the ‘new’ New Zealand.

As innovation and experimentation speeds, new varietals such as Albariño and Lagrein have found their way into the vineyards with Stanley Estates in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley a front runner in the field. Five vintages on from New Zealand’s first commercial Albariño bottling, the cuvée is gathering in style, composure and substance with every new release, with vine age and the winemaker’s know-how enriching the process each and every year. This is very much a reflection of the New Zealand wine industry at large.

A modern day success story like no other in the world of wine; New Zealand is far from a one trick pony.

Australia: new wave wines with gravitas

There was a time in the late 1980s and early 1990s when everybody was talking about Australian wine. Even the French were discussing the virtues of the wares produced in this largely emerging wine-producing nation, who burst onto the vinous scene with wines that literally jumped from the glass with bold fruit flavours and catchy brand names. Understandable varietal labelling allied to a general feeling that the laid back Aussie character had poured over into the wines it produced, separated the Australian offerings from the more traditional and arguably bland bottles which had been available in the UK until this point. In an inexplicably short time Australia had showed the world that wine could be a drink for the masses, that you didn’t need to be nobility to enjoy a glass and that that glass needn’t cost you the earth. The product itself was an extension of the nation itself, offering sunshine and opulence in every glass. And we loved it. We really, really could not get enough.

Chardonnay and Shiraz are the two varietals which even now the majority of wine lovers would pin-point as Australia’s calling card. The former has subsequently suffered as consumers recall the sweet, oaked-up Chardonnays of yesteryear. Styles which at the time we all lapped up have now fallen out of fashion. To an extent the same could be true of Shiraz. Though it is entirely possible to pick up examples which hit 16% alcohol and are stylistically more akin to a liquidised black-forest gâteau, the general movement since the heady days of peak Australian wine consumption has been one of stylistic restraint.

Australia’s trump card is one of innovation and an unwillingness to sit still where wine development, be it in the vineyard or cellar, is concerned. As I have written previously in my blogs, the current trend within the country is to seek out subtlety, vineyard expression, varietal character and freshness. Mouthfeel and tannin structure are critical, and replace wines of sweetness and in some cases, overt concentration. Essentially, the knobs have largely been turned down across the nation and with it have arrived some of the most exciting new wines in a generation.

Terroir; a word which the majority of Australian winemakers used to laugh at, has become ever more understood and considered by growers. Lower alcohol, use of more European grape varieties and a general feeling of regional authenticity lend the new wave wines gravitas and interest. Modern Australian wines offer lighter, fresher and progressive styles which are lighting up the UK market, many of which are available on this very website. Grüner-Veltliner, a white variety from Austria, finds its home in ideal conditions up in the Adelaide Hills. The Pawn Wine Company and Pike & Joyce both offer stunning examples. Sangiovese, the grape variety of Chianti, finds a home in McLaren Vale; produced by Coriole Estate it heralds from the mother block of the variety in Australia, planted back in 1985. Nero d’Avola, Fiano, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano and Barbera, originally from Italy, fill the Frontier list. Tempranillo, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and Verdejo to name a few more…

One thing is for certain; Australia is not afraid to try new things, to develop, innovate, to take risks. For this alone the nation should be applauded. By way of comparison, the Bordeaux classification of 1855 is now somewhat out of kilter with the reality of the region, however it is etched so very firmly in the national psyche that it is unlikely to ever be revised. This is where Australia and France differ. I wonder if it is any coincidence that Australian wines continue to be the most popular among UK adults at 29% of the market, ahead of France at 22%?

Sacré rouge et blanc, Bruce!

South Africa: inspiring times

Since the early 1990s, South Africa has enjoyed a peaceful, positive and democratic existence. Dynamic and enormously diverse as a nation, South Africa’s Western Cape offers the very same attributes in its winemaking tradition and history, which dates back over three and a half centuries.

As the shackles of apartheid fell loose, established winemakers re-emerged onto the international scene, followed by a full scale explosion of new wines, wineries and international investment. In turn, this has helped to attract more highly qualified winemakers to ply their trade in the Cape; surely the most beautiful winemaking region of the world.

As winemaking has intensified, so too have the number of varietals cultivated. Indeed, new wine regions have come into being during this period as an understanding of terroir, climate, vine variety and aspect have come into play. Improved winemaking techniques and vineyard management have help to bolster the quality of fruit received by the winery. Garagiste, small scale growers producing wonderfully unique, hand-crafted wines are at every turn, as is the emergence of the maverick winemakers in the expansive Swartland region, to the north of Cape Town.

The varieties vary with region; however Chenin Blanc, the famous white variety of the Loire Valley in France truly shines in the South African sun. It arguably holds the country’s greatest potential on the world scene. Here it has the potential to produce dry, full-bodied, floral examples which are at the same time immediate, whilst conversely holding the capacity to develop beautifully in bottle. Old vine examples offer even greater complexity and potential – look out for the showstopping pair of Stellenbosch examples; DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc and Kaapzicht’s ultra rare 1947 Chenin Blanc which heralds from the nation’s second oldest Chenin vineyard. Of the reds, Pinotage is the ‘marmite’ variety which offers plush, richly-flavoured wines which work wonderfully in the right winemaking hands. Frontier has the pleasure of offering two great examples at both ends of the stylistic spectrum; Spice Route’s Swartland Pinotage is modern and beautifully styled, and Kaapzicht’s Stellenbosch Pinotage, which has a classic, gutsy, more traditional feel. Both are outstanding. Elsewhere, Sauvignon Blanc in the region of Darling; Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir in the cool climes of Elgin; Bordeaux varietals (and especially blends) from the iconic Stellenbosch region and Rhône varietals, both red and white, from the uber-trendy Swartland. South Africa does have it all.

In a nutshell, these are inspiring times for South African wine as the country starts to fully develop its own identity. As it delivers day by day on the vast potential which exists, there is no doubt that the Rainbow Nation is the most dynamic and focused wine producing region of the New World. Its potential for greatness is matched only by its desire to succeed.

Frontier Fine Wines is extremely proud to have direct links to some of the true trailblazers of South African wine. A selection of their stunning wines can be found just a few clicks away.

South Africa: inspiring times

Since the early 1990s, South Africa has enjoyed a peaceful, positive and democratic existence. Dynamic and enormously diverse as a nation, South Africa’s Western Cape offers the very same attributes in its winemaking tradition and history, which dates back over three and a half centuries.

As the shackles of apartheid fell loose, established winemakers re-emerged onto the international scene, followed by a full scale explosion of new wines, wineries and international investment. In turn, this has helped to attract more highly qualified winemakers to ply their trade in the Cape; surely the most beautiful winemaking region of the world.

As winemaking has intensified, so too have the number of varietals cultivated. Indeed, new wine regions have come into being during this period as an understanding of terroir, climate, vine variety and aspect have come into play. Improved winemaking techniques and vineyard management have help to bolster the quality of fruit received by the winery. Garagiste, small scale growers producing wonderfully unique, hand-crafted wines are at every turn, as is the emergence of the maverick winemakers in the expansive Swartland region, to the north of Cape Town.

The varieties vary with region; however Chenin Blanc, the famous white variety of the Loire Valley in France truly shines in the South African sun. It arguably holds the country’s greatest potential on the world scene. Here it has the potential to produce dry, full-bodied, floral examples which are at the same time immediate, whilst conversely holding the capacity to develop beautifully in bottle. Old vine examples offer even greater complexity and potential – look out for the showstopping pair of Stellenbosch examples; DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc and Kaapzicht’s ultra rare 1947 Chenin Blanc which heralds from the nation’s second oldest Chenin vineyard. Of the reds, Pinotage is the ‘marmite’ variety which offers plush, richly-flavoured wines which work wonderfully in the right winemaking hands. Frontier has the pleasure of offering two great examples at both ends of the stylistic spectrum; Spice Route’s Swartland Pinotage is modern and beautifully styled, and Kaapzicht’s Stellenbosch Pinotage, which has a classic, gutsy, more traditional feel. Both are outstanding. Elsewhere, Sauvignon Blanc in the region of Darling; Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir in the cool climes of Elgin; Bordeaux varietals (and especially blends) from the iconic Stellenbosch region and Rhône varietals, both red and white, from the uber-trendy Swartland. South Africa does have it all.

In a nutshell, these are inspiring times for South African wine as the country starts to fully develop its own identity. As it delivers day by day on the vast potential which exists, there is no doubt that the Rainbow Nation is the most dynamic and focused wine producing region of the New World. Its potential for greatness is matched only by its desire to succeed.

Frontier Fine Wines is extremely proud to have direct links to some of the true trailblazers of South African wine. A selection of their stunning wines can be found just a few clicks away.

New Zealand: Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit…

There was a time when New Zealand was just about Sauvignon Blanc. There was little else in fact, pitched to the world in a burgundy-shaped bottle emblazoned most notably with a grey, almost misty-cove like image… The contents of the bottle pushed the virtues of the Sauvignon Blanc varietal to the world in a way which at that point in time had never been seen before, delivering flavours and textures that were inconceivable to an audience whose only prior exposure to Sauvignon was likely to have been a simple, flinty Sancerre. In fact, given the lack of varietal labelling in France, it is quite likely that they did not even realise they had been drinking Sauvignon Blanc at all! Density in the glass, a room full of gooseberry aromatics and a taste more about purity of fruit than the oak chips delivered by most mainstream Australian Chardonnays at the time; it was the dawning of a new day for New Zealand wine and it is fair to say that they have never looked back.

Sauvignon was, and still is, a variety which divides opinion. Its very status as a noble varietal is often brought into question due to the general inability of its wines to age well. It is a curious beast marauding and dominating the market like few other varieties do – it’s a love or hate style, with a split seemingly about 50/50. Sauvignon Blanc… the Marmite of the wine world.

But New Zealand has come a long, long way since the early days of Cloudy Bay et al. Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit and Marlborough is not the only region.

With an emphasis on lighter-styled reds and aromatic whites, Syrah from Gimblet Gravels in Hawkes Bay, world class Chardonnay from Kumeu River and the emergence of regions such as Martinborough in the North Island excelling in Pinot Noir have set New Zealand on fire in international markets.

Elsewhere, let us not forget the quality and value to be found from Waipara on the east coast of the South Island, together with the world’s most southerly wine-producing region; Central Otago. Here the country’s potential for world class Pinot Noir is arguably at its greatest. For a region which barely existed on the international wine map as recently as the mid-nineties, ‘Central’ really does represent the calling-card for the ‘new’ New Zealand.

As innovation and experimentation speeds, new varietals such as Albariño and Lagrein have found their way into the vineyards with Stanley Estates in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley a front runner in the field. Five vintages on from New Zealand’s first commercial Albariño bottling, the cuvée is gathering in style, composure and substance with every new release, with vine age and the winemaker’s know-how enriching the process each and every year. This is very much a reflection of the New Zealand wine industry at large.

A modern day success story like no other in the world of wine; New Zealand is far from a one trick pony.

Australia: new wave wines with gravitas

There was a time in the late 1980s and early 1990s when everybody was talking about Australian wine. Even the French were discussing the virtues of the wares produced in this largely emerging wine-producing nation, who burst onto the vinous scene with wines that literally jumped from the glass with bold fruit flavours and catchy brand names. Understandable varietal labelling allied to a general feeling that the laid back Aussie character had poured over into the wines it produced, separated the Australian offerings from the more traditional and arguably bland bottles which had been available in the UK until this point. In an inexplicably short time Australia had showed the world that wine could be a drink for the masses, that you didn’t need to be nobility to enjoy a glass and that that glass needn’t cost you the earth. The product itself was an extension of the nation itself, offering sunshine and opulence in every glass. And we loved it. We really, really could not get enough.

Chardonnay and Shiraz are the two varietals which even now the majority of wine lovers would pin-point as Australia’s calling card. The former has subsequently suffered as consumers recall the sweet, oaked-up Chardonnays of yesteryear. Styles which at the time we all lapped up have now fallen out of fashion. To an extent the same could be true of Shiraz. Though it is entirely possible to pick up examples which hit 16% alcohol and are stylistically more akin to a liquidised black-forest gâteau, the general movement since the heady days of peak Australian wine consumption has been one of stylistic restraint.

Australia’s trump card is one of innovation and an unwillingness to sit still where wine development, be it in the vineyard or cellar, is concerned. As I have written previously in my blogs, the current trend within the country is to seek out subtlety, vineyard expression, varietal character and freshness. Mouthfeel and tannin structure are critical, and replace wines of sweetness and in some cases, overt concentration. Essentially, the knobs have largely been turned down across the nation and with it have arrived some of the most exciting new wines in a generation.

Terroir; a word which the majority of Australian winemakers used to laugh at, has become ever more understood and considered by growers. Lower alcohol, use of more European grape varieties and a general feeling of regional authenticity lend the new wave wines gravitas and interest. Modern Australian wines offer lighter, fresher and progressive styles which are lighting up the UK market, many of which are available on this very website. Grüner-Veltliner, a white variety from Austria, finds its home in ideal conditions up in the Adelaide Hills. The Pawn Wine Company and Pike & Joyce both offer stunning examples. Sangiovese, the grape variety of Chianti, finds a home in McLaren Vale; produced by Coriole Estate it heralds from the mother block of the variety in Australia, planted back in 1985. Nero d’Avola, Fiano, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano and Barbera, originally from Italy, fill the Frontier list. Tempranillo, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and Verdejo to name a few more…

One thing is for certain; Australia is not afraid to try new things, to develop, innovate, to take risks. For this alone the nation should be applauded. By way of comparison, the Bordeaux classification of 1855 is now somewhat out of kilter with the reality of the region, however it is etched so very firmly in the national psyche that it is unlikely to ever be revised. This is where Australia and France differ. I wonder if it is any coincidence that Australian wines continue to be the most popular among UK adults at 29% of the market, ahead of France at 22%?

Sacré rouge et blanc, Bruce!

Stellenbosch – The ‘Kingdom of Cabernet’

Today, the 2nd of September, the wine world celebrates the undisputed king of red varieties – Cabernet Sauvignon – the most widely planted red grape variety in the world.

To celebrate International Cabernet Sauvignon Day, we have focused our attention on Cabernet Sauvignon specifically from the Stellenbosch region in South Africa and to highlight the Stellenbosch Cabernet CollectiveA collective of Stellenbosch wine producers to whom quality is paramount.

The story of the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective begins with a tale of passion and creativity. Rising out of an alluring landscape, rich history, vibrant culture and unparalleled architecture, Stellenbosch is one of South Africa’s most prominent wine producing regions and desirable tourist destinations. Today, the region has become the focus of many profoundly adept oenologists and agronomists who use their unique premium local African terroir to produce top quality Cabernet among other wines.

A love for country, community and producing fine wine has given rise to a collaborative group of 35 members that desire to see this regions Cabernet Sauvignons performing against the best on a global platform.

About the Region

Stellenbosch is classified as a Wine of Origin region, is home to more than a third of the Cape’s wineries and has the largest vineyard area under Cabernet Sauvignon in South Africa.  Stellenbosch is divided into 5 sub-wards namely Stellenbosch Berg, Greater Simonsberg, Stellenbosch Valley, Bottelary Hills and Helderberg. Each ward is differentiated by soil types, aspect and area. This allows the wines of Stellenbosch great diversity but each with a commonality from whence they came.

Soils

The area of Stellenbosch, because of its diverse variety of terroir, has fondly become known in South Africa as the ‘Kingdom of Cabernet’. Due its array of soil types, which amounts to as many 50 different types, winemakers in this region have been able to produce some of South Africa’s top Cabernet examples.  The ancient soils in Stellenbosch are acidic with decomposed granite and shale in the mountainside vineyards, interlaced with alluvial deposits in the valley floors.  The soils in this region are well drained and are comparatively able to retain the right amount of water needed for the vines to thrive. These factors make for an ideal medium in which to grow Cabernet Sauvignon.  The heat retaining capacity of the warm soils in Stellenbosch are also of paramount importance as temperature plays an important role in ripening the grapes. While Cabernet is definitely produced using a wide variety of soils, it has been said that many people enjoy the minerality of Cabernets produced from the more granite based mountainous areas in Stellenbosch.  The soils in this region, among other factors, have allowed winemakers to produce Cabernet in a uniquely African way. Although South Africa is classified as a New World wine producer, stylistically the wines have an old world character; they are more austere, with dry tannins and a slightly herbaceous character.

Climate

The climate in Stellenbosch is most certainly one of the most important contributing factors to the growth of noble wine cultivars. The cooler, wet winters and the dry, hot summers in Stellenbosch are characteristic of a Mediterranean climate.  The characteristic thick skin of Cabernet is indicative of a grape that ripens comparatively late in the year compared to other varietals. The warm climate and daylight hours, approximately 14 hours in summer and 10 hours in winter, in Stellenbosch is therefore paramount to the growth process of the Cabernet grapes which would otherwise not be able to reach their optimal ripeness.  The average temperature in Stellenbosch is 16.4 degrees with temperatures reaching the mid-high 20s during the summer months. Although the vines struggle in extremely hot temperatures, the maritime climate with close proximity to the Indian and Atlantic oceans means that cool prevailing South Easterly wind allows the vineyards some relief from the hot weather during the summer months. These winds also inhibit the development of disease in the vineyards.  With an annual rainfall of between 600mm – 800mm, Stellenbosch vineyards receive plenty of rain. The good annual rainfall means that while there might not be sufficient rains during the summer periods, winemakers are able to store excess water for irrigation when necessary.  In essence, the combination of maritime influences such as ocean breezes and coastal fogs, coupled with a warm Mediterranean climate, makes Stellenbosch one of the most ideal places to cultivate Cabernet with a unique and complex character.

Aspect

The majestic mountains and undulating rolling hills in Stellenbosch are not only a portrayal of its beauty, but are important factors in cultivating the vines that grow here. The hills in Stellenbosch are not steep, meaning that farmers can plant vines in rows up to the top, some of which are as high as 250m above sea level. Stellenbosch lies in a mountainous valley with an average elevation of 136m above sea level. The Stellenbosch mountain is South of the area, whilst the Jonkershoek, Drakenstein and Simonsberg mountains are in the East and Southeast. The highest point of elevation is Victoria Peak at 1590m.

Cabernet Clones

Various Cabernet clones are planted in Stellenbosch with the most common being CS 46 for its consistent good quality. Other clones used are CS336/337 , CS 37, CS 338, CS 359/360, and the less yielding CS 169. Clone planting depends greatly on sites and soil types as well as personal preference. In South Africa almost all of the vineyards are grafted onto root stocks due to the presence of phylloxera which was discovered in the Cape in 1880.

“If you haven’t already discovered Stellenbosch Cabernet, its time to seek some out and experience it for yourself” – Anthony Mueller, The Wine Advocate

“Stellenbosch Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc is blessed with some of the finest and most suitable terroir anywhere in the world” – Greg Sherwood MW

Click here to view the exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon’s from our Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective Producers

South Africa: inspiring times

Since the early 1990s, South Africa has enjoyed a peaceful, positive and democratic existence. Dynamic and enormously diverse as a nation, South Africa’s Western Cape offers the very same attributes in its winemaking tradition and history, which dates back over three and a half centuries.

As the shackles of apartheid fell loose, established winemakers re-emerged onto the international scene, followed by a full scale explosion of new wines, wineries and international investment. In turn, this has helped to attract more highly qualified winemakers to ply their trade in the Cape; surely the most beautiful winemaking region of the world.

As winemaking has intensified, so too have the number of varietals cultivated. Indeed, new wine regions have come into being during this period as an understanding of terroir, climate, vine variety and aspect have come into play. Improved winemaking techniques and vineyard management have help to bolster the quality of fruit received by the winery. Garagiste, small scale growers producing wonderfully unique, hand-crafted wines are at every turn, as is the emergence of the maverick winemakers in the expansive Swartland region, to the north of Cape Town.

The varieties vary with region; however Chenin Blanc, the famous white variety of the Loire Valley in France truly shines in the South African sun. It arguably holds the country’s greatest potential on the world scene. Here it has the potential to produce dry, full-bodied, floral examples which are at the same time immediate, whilst conversely holding the capacity to develop beautifully in bottle. Old vine examples offer even greater complexity and potential – look out for the showstopping pair of Stellenbosch examples; DeMorgenzon Reserve Chenin Blanc and Kaapzicht’s ultra rare 1947 Chenin Blanc which heralds from the nation’s second oldest Chenin vineyard. Of the reds, Pinotage is the ‘marmite’ variety which offers plush, richly-flavoured wines which work wonderfully in the right winemaking hands. Frontier has the pleasure of offering two great examples at both ends of the stylistic spectrum; Spice Route’s Swartland Pinotage is modern and beautifully styled, and Kaapzicht’s Stellenbosch Pinotage, which has a classic, gutsy, more traditional feel. Both are outstanding. Elsewhere, Sauvignon Blanc in the region of Darling; Riesling, Gewurztraminer and Pinot Noir in the cool climes of Elgin; Bordeaux varietals (and especially blends) from the iconic Stellenbosch region and Rhône varietals, both red and white, from the uber-trendy Swartland. South Africa does have it all.

In a nutshell, these are inspiring times for South African wine as the country starts to fully develop its own identity. As it delivers day by day on the vast potential which exists, there is no doubt that the Rainbow Nation is the most dynamic and focused wine producing region of the New World. Its potential for greatness is matched only by its desire to succeed.

Frontier Fine Wines is extremely proud to have direct links to some of the true trailblazers of South African wine. A selection of their stunning wines can be found just a few clicks away.

Australia: new wave wines with gravitas

There was a time in the late 1980s and early 1990s when everybody was talking about Australian wine. Even the French were discussing the virtues of the wares produced in this largely emerging wine-producing nation, who burst onto the vinous scene with wines that literally jumped from the glass with bold fruit flavours and catchy brand names. Understandable varietal labelling allied to a general feeling that the laid back Aussie character had poured over into the wines it produced, separated the Australian offerings from the more traditional and arguably bland bottles which had been available in the UK until this point. In an inexplicably short time Australia had showed the world that wine could be a drink for the masses, that you didn’t need to be nobility to enjoy a glass and that that glass needn’t cost you the earth. The product itself was an extension of the nation itself, offering sunshine and opulence in every glass. And we loved it. We really, really could not get enough.

Chardonnay and Shiraz are the two varietals which even now the majority of wine lovers would pin-point as Australia’s calling card. The former has subsequently suffered as consumers recall the sweet, oaked-up Chardonnays of yesteryear. Styles which at the time we all lapped up have now fallen out of fashion. To an extent the same could be true of Shiraz. Though it is entirely possible to pick up examples which hit 16% alcohol and are stylistically more akin to a liquidised black-forest gâteau, the general movement since the heady days of peak Australian wine consumption has been one of stylistic restraint.

Australia’s trump card is one of innovation and an unwillingness to sit still where wine development, be it in the vineyard or cellar, is concerned. As I have written previously in my blogs, the current trend within the country is to seek out subtlety, vineyard expression, varietal character and freshness. Mouthfeel and tannin structure are critical, and replace wines of sweetness and in some cases, overt concentration. Essentially, the knobs have largely been turned down across the nation and with it have arrived some of the most exciting new wines in a generation.

Terroir; a word which the majority of Australian winemakers used to laugh at, has become ever more understood and considered by growers. Lower alcohol, use of more European grape varieties and a general feeling of regional authenticity lend the new wave wines gravitas and interest. Modern Australian wines offer lighter, fresher and progressive styles which are lighting up the UK market, many of which are available on this very website. Grüner-Veltliner, a white variety from Austria, finds its home in ideal conditions up in the Adelaide Hills. The Pawn Wine Company and Pike & Joyce both offer stunning examples. Sangiovese, the grape variety of Chianti, finds a home in McLaren Vale; produced by Coriole Estate it heralds from the mother block of the variety in Australia, planted back in 1985. Nero d’Avola, Fiano, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano and Barbera, originally from Italy, fill the Frontier list. Tempranillo, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and Verdejo to name a few more…

One thing is for certain; Australia is not afraid to try new things, to develop, innovate, to take risks. For this alone the nation should be applauded. By way of comparison, the Bordeaux classification of 1855 is now somewhat out of kilter with the reality of the region, however it is etched so very firmly in the national psyche that it is unlikely to ever be revised. This is where Australia and France differ. I wonder if it is any coincidence that Australian wines continue to be the most popular among UK adults at 29% of the market, ahead of France at 22%?

Sacré rouge et blanc, Bruce!

New Zealand: Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit…

There was a time when New Zealand was just about Sauvignon Blanc. There was little else in fact, pitched to the world in a burgundy-shaped bottle emblazoned most notably with a grey, almost misty-cove like image… The contents of the bottle pushed the virtues of the Sauvignon Blanc varietal to the world in a way which at that point in time had never been seen before, delivering flavours and textures that were inconceivable to an audience whose only prior exposure to Sauvignon was likely to have been a simple, flinty Sancerre. In fact, given the lack of varietal labelling in France, it is quite likely that they did not even realise they had been drinking Sauvignon Blanc at all! Density in the glass, a room full of gooseberry aromatics and a taste more about purity of fruit than the oak chips delivered by most mainstream Australian Chardonnays at the time; it was the dawning of a new day for New Zealand wine and it is fair to say that they have never looked back.

Sauvignon was, and still is, a variety which divides opinion. Its very status as a noble varietal is often brought into question due to the general inability of its wines to age well. It is a curious beast marauding and dominating the market like few other varieties do – it’s a love or hate style, with a split seemingly about 50/50. Sauvignon Blanc… the Marmite of the wine world.

But New Zealand has come a long, long way since the early days of Cloudy Bay et al. Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit and Marlborough is not the only region.

With an emphasis on lighter-styled reds and aromatic whites, Syrah from Gimblet Gravels in Hawkes Bay, world class Chardonnay from Kumeu River and the emergence of regions such as Martinborough in the North Island excelling in Pinot Noir have set New Zealand on fire in international markets.

Elsewhere, let us not forget the quality and value to be found from Waipara on the east coast of the South Island, together with the world’s most southerly wine-producing region; Central Otago. Here the country’s potential for world class Pinot Noir is arguably at its greatest. For a region which barely existed on the international wine map as recently as the mid-nineties, ‘Central’ really does represent the calling-card for the ‘new’ New Zealand.

As innovation and experimentation speeds, new varietals such as Albariño and Lagrein have found their way into the vineyards with Stanley Estates in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley a front runner in the field. Five vintages on from New Zealand’s first commercial Albariño bottling, the cuvée is gathering in style, composure and substance with every new release, with vine age and the winemaker’s know-how enriching the process each and every year. This is very much a reflection of the New Zealand wine industry at large.

A modern day success story like no other in the world of wine; New Zealand is far from a one trick pony.