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International Pinot Noir Day – 18th August 2018

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

Happy Pinot Noir Day

Today is International Pinot Noir Day, and to join in the celebrations around the world, we are offering a 10% discount on our fantastic range of Pinot Noir wines.

Enter discount code 2018PN10 at checkout
(offer valid until Sunday 19th August)

Frontier Fine Wines has a portfolio of award winning Pinot Noir from Chile, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa to suit all palates and style preferences.

Our range includes Pinot Noirs from some of the most admired New World Pinot Noir Pioneers including Escarpment, Bouchard Finlayson, Paul Cluver and Catherine Marshall.

Pinot Noir is one of the world’s most popular grape varieties, with its wonderfully heady perfumes, and thrillingly pure, sweet, red berry flavours of raspberry, loganberry, mulberry, cherry and strawberry.

Its the grape that stars in some of the world’s most expensive and rare red wines when grown in its home territory of Burgundy, however is making a home for itself in the New World, with some fantastic (and amazing value for money) wines now being produced.

Place your order on one of our New World Pinot Noir gems today.

New Zealand: Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit…

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

There was a time when New Zealand was just about Sauvignon Blanc. There was little else in fact, pitched to the world in a burgundy-shaped bottle emblazoned most notably with a grey, almost misty-cove like image… The contents of the bottle pushed the virtues of the Sauvignon Blanc varietal to the world in a way which at that point in time had never been seen before, delivering flavours and textures that were inconceivable to an audience whose only prior exposure to Sauvignon was likely to have been a simple, flinty Sancerre. In fact, given the lack of varietal labelling in France, it is quite likely that they did not even realise they had been drinking Sauvignon Blanc at all! Density in the glass, a room full of gooseberry aromatics and a taste more about purity of fruit than the oak chips delivered by most mainstream Australian Chardonnays at the time; it was the dawning of a new day for New Zealand wine and it is fair to say that they have never looked back.

Sauvignon was, and still is, a variety which divides opinion. Its very status as a noble varietal is often brought into question due to the general inability of its wines to age well. It is a curious beast marauding and dominating the market like few other varieties do – it’s a love or hate style, with a split seemingly about 50/50. Sauvignon Blanc… the Marmite of the wine world.

But New Zealand has come a long, long way since the early days of Cloudy Bay et al. Sauvignon Blanc is not the only fruit and Marlborough is not the only region.

With an emphasis on lighter-styled reds and aromatic whites, Syrah from Gimblet Gravels in Hawkes Bay, world class Chardonnay from Kumeu River and the emergence of regions such as Martinborough in the North Island excelling in Pinot Noir have set New Zealand on fire in international markets.

Elsewhere, let us not forget the quality and value to be found from Waipara on the east coast of the South Island, together with the world’s most southerly wine-producing region; Central Otago. Here the country’s potential for world class Pinot Noir is arguably at its greatest. For a region which barely existed on the international wine map as recently as the mid-nineties, ‘Central’ really does represent the calling-card for the ‘new’ New Zealand.

As innovation and experimentation speeds, new varietals such as Albariño and Lagrein have found their way into the vineyards with Stanley Estates in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley a front runner in the field. Five vintages on from New Zealand’s first commercial Albariño bottling, the cuvée is gathering in style, composure and substance with every new release, with vine age and the winemaker’s know-how enriching the process each and every year. This is very much a reflection of the New Zealand wine industry at large.

A modern day success story like no other in the world of wine; New Zealand is far from a one trick pony.

Thorn-Clarke – value in experience

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

Thorn-Clarke are something special. A winegrower of such pedigree, tradition and self-assurance that you are left wondering how on earth they have passed you by, unnoticed, for so long. Though passing like proverbial ships in the night, I am overjoyed to acknowledge they have now registered a sizable ‘blip’ on my radar! My red wine of 2015, from their fair hand, was the exceptional 2012 Shotfire Quartage; a Bordeaux blend with so much to say…

So let me tell you more about this historic grandee of South Australia’s most famous wine region – The Barossa Valley.

Thorn-Clarke’s ancestors were originally drawn to the region by the great Australian gold rush of the late 19th Century. The name Thorn-Clarke derives from the relationship between two long time Barossa families; husband and wife, David and Cheryl Clarke both have (if you’ll pardon the pun) deep family roots in the Barossa. Cheryl Clarke’s family, the Thorns, have a long tradition of grape growing in Barossa whereas David Clarke’s family, became famous in the region through the mining of gold. Together David and Cheryl have established and grown Thorn-Clarke into the successful winery it is today.

Location wise, Thorn-Clarke are in an enviable position. With a firm understanding of the region’s geology though their established mining link, they have over time amassed four prime single vineyards across the Barossa; from Mount Crawford in the cool southern Eden Valley to the dry and warm St Kitts vineyard in northern Barossa.

There is freshness present in the estate’s wines which show pedigree, elegance and an assurance that few growers in the region can match. In the glass their wines deliver the exceptional fruit flavours one would expect from this iconic wine region, however there is also structure, character and exceptional value for money.

The latter point is really Thorn-Clarke’s calling card. I guess the American critic Robert Parker might refer to it as “bang for your buck”. One thing is for certain – these are wines which offer satisfaction on so many levels, from the fresh and vibrant Mount Crawford Riesling, full of zingy lemon and lime notes, right through to the true icons of the range, in the form of William Randell Shiraz and single vineyard Ron Thorne Shiraz, both of which are bold and full of spice plum and black cherry fruit. Capable of long term aging, the 2012 Ron Thorne Shiraz was recently awarded the International Wine and Spirit Competition’s trophy for the world’s best Shiraz/Syrah! With so many accolades over the years and a perpetual reference to the value for money their wines offer the drinker… surely it is time to introduce your palate to the wonderful Thorn-Clarke portfolio?!

Lunch with Larry McKenna

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

Escarpment Vineyards in New Zealand’s Martinborough region is home to one of the country’s most iconic and influential winemakers. Larry McKenna is, simply, a living legend. From his involvement with Martinborough Vineyards back in 1986 (becoming the region’s first professional winemaker in the process) to the present day, Larry has set about defining the terroir of this rapidly emerging Pinot Noir hotspot. Realising early on that Pinot Noir could thrive in his corner of the southern hemisphere Larry planted a number of vineyards, including the now famous Kupe vineyard, to highlight just how good Martinborough could be. Various clones, including the notorious gum-boot clone of Romanée-Conti fame were utilised, together with Burgundian-style high density planting in the Kupe site. Having established Escarpment back in 1999, the vineyards are now really hitting their stride.

I was lucky enough to attend a lunch hosted by Larry recently, where he introduced us to the latest instalment of his Insight Series of single vineyard Pinot Noirs, the 2014s. Following on from the hugely-lauded 2013 releases, stylistically each cuvée was very individual in the glass, with the different vineyard expressions surely capable of finding an appreciative audience; from elegant and refined Burgundy-inspired Kiwa to deeply-flavoured and unashamedly New World Pahi. The Te Rehua vineyard is Chambolle-Musigny in New World clothes; full of black cherry and plum flavours. We finished with Larry’s jewel in the crown; Kupe. Bold and intoxicating, there is a core of intensity and tightly-wound, ultra-fine tannins. With a density of cherry fruit with disarmingly approachable structure and freshness, Kupe is a singular wine and a star of New Zealand Pinot Noir. Larry’s 2014s were quite simply astonishing.

Though difficult to source in volume, such is the demand, Larry’s wines offer great value. Frontier are very honoured to receive a direct allocation of these fabulous wines to offer to our customers so please do drop me an email if you would like to secure a bottle or two!

As a final note, I wanted to mention part of a conversation I had with Larry just after the tasting. He told me that he had hardly slept the previous night; such were his nerves over the looming 2014 vintage launch that we had just attended. It shows the human side of the great man that even after all of these years and after rafts of outstanding reviews and awards, he should still get butterflies over the performance of his beautiful wines.

He needn’t have worried, though I am kind of glad he did. It is this attention to detail which has made him the hero he is, and rendered his wines the expressive heartbeat of Martinborough.

Australia: new wave wines with gravitas

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

There was a time in the late 1980s and early 1990s when everybody was talking about Australian wine. Even the French were discussing the virtues of the wares produced in this largely emerging wine-producing nation, who burst onto the vinous scene with wines that literally jumped from the glass with bold fruit flavours and catchy brand names. Understandable varietal labelling allied to a general feeling that the laid back Aussie character had poured over into the wines it produced, separated the Australian offerings from the more traditional and arguably bland bottles which had been available in the UK until this point. In an inexplicably short time Australia had showed the world that wine could be a drink for the masses, that you didn’t need to be nobility to enjoy a glass and that that glass needn’t cost you the earth. The product itself was an extension of the nation itself, offering sunshine and opulence in every glass. And we loved it. We really, really could not get enough.

Chardonnay and Shiraz are the two varietals which even now the majority of wine lovers would pin-point as Australia’s calling card. The former has subsequently suffered as consumers recall the sweet, oaked-up Chardonnays of yesteryear. Styles which at the time we all lapped up have now fallen out of fashion. To an extent the same could be true of Shiraz. Though it is entirely possible to pick up examples which hit 16% alcohol and are stylistically more akin to a liquidised black-forest gâteau, the general movement since the heady days of peak Australian wine consumption has been one of stylistic restraint.

Australia’s trump card is one of innovation and an unwillingness to sit still where wine development, be it in the vineyard or cellar, is concerned. As I have written previously in my blogs, the current trend within the country is to seek out subtlety, vineyard expression, varietal character and freshness. Mouthfeel and tannin structure are critical, and replace wines of sweetness and in some cases, overt concentration. Essentially, the knobs have largely been turned down across the nation and with it have arrived some of the most exciting new wines in a generation.

Terroir; a word which the majority of Australian winemakers used to laugh at, has become ever more understood and considered by growers. Lower alcohol, use of more European grape varieties and a general feeling of regional authenticity lend the new wave wines gravitas and interest. Modern Australian wines offer lighter, fresher and progressive styles which are lighting up the UK market, many of which are available on this very website. Grüner-Veltliner, a white variety from Austria, finds its home in ideal conditions up in the Adelaide Hills. The Pawn Wine Company and Pike & Joyce both offer stunning examples. Sangiovese, the grape variety of Chianti, finds a home in McLaren Vale; produced by Coriole Estate it heralds from the mother block of the variety in Australia, planted back in 1985. Nero d’Avola, Fiano, Nebbiolo, Montepulciano and Barbera, originally from Italy, fill the Frontier list. Tempranillo, Pinot Grigio, Moscato and Verdejo to name a few more…

One thing is for certain; Australia is not afraid to try new things, to develop, innovate, to take risks. For this alone the nation should be applauded. By way of comparison, the Bordeaux classification of 1855 is now somewhat out of kilter with the reality of the region, however it is etched so very firmly in the national psyche that it is unlikely to ever be revised. This is where Australia and France differ. I wonder if it is any coincidence that Australian wines continue to be the most popular among UK adults at 29% of the market, ahead of France at 22%?

Sacré rouge et blanc, Bruce!

A tasting with Rustenberg

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

Visiting Rustenberg is always a treat. One of the most beautiful wineries in the Cape and just 10 minutes from the centre of Stellenbosch on the slopes of the Simonsberg mountains, it takes as long to drive up the beautiful 2.5km drive as it does to drive from the town centre to the entrance gate! Rustenberg’s tasting room is a cathedral of calm with visitors enjoying the fantastic range of wines – by contrast the winery is a hive of activity with the vintage in full flow.

The impressive wine range starts off with a refreshing Sauvignon and an unusual Roussanne, followed by the highly-rated and -awarded Chardonnays. The top Chardonnay – Five Soldiers – is named after a group of five stone pines growing in a dominant position in the middle of the vineyards. The reds are gently introduced with a dry Petit Verdot Rosé and a deliciously bright Grenache. The more serious wines follow, culminating with the world class Peter Barlow Cabernet Sauvignon. To round off the tasting, try the new fragrant Red Muscadel which has delicious hints of Turkish delight.

p.s If you are visiting – do take time to visit the lovely gardens and walk the meditative labyrinth.

Kaapzicht’s incredible charity work

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

The Pebbles Project:

In 1987 Danie Steytler Snr of Kaapzicht Wine Estate took up an opportunity to buy a temporary school building with 12 classrooms. Eight of the classrooms were moved to a new foundation on the Kaapzicht farm with a proper stone structure as small apartments for their workers, and four classrooms were turned into a larger community hall plus a smaller room for a future kindergarten. At the same time the kindergarten which Danie Jnr attended moved into a brand new building and Kaapzicht took the opportunity to inherit all the old furniture, toys and games.

Unfortunately finding a suitable teacher for the little ones proved more complicated, with various mothers from the farm community as well as outside teachers trying their hand with varying success. There were even some periods when the kindergarten wasn’t able to operate.

In 2008, Danie Jnr was approached by Pebbles (a UK charity) who had heard of the attempts to run a farm crèche for the estate workers’ children and he gladly accepted their offer to help! Since then the kindergarten has operated seamlessly under the guidance of Pebbles who educate, advise and monitor the two local ladies who are employed as kindergarten teachers. Currently they look after five babies from 3 months to 3 years, and four children between 4 and 5 years of age. In previous years they have had up to 16 children in the crèche.

On the suggestion of Pebbles, Kaapzicht also started an After School Club (ASC) in 2008, where (currently 31) school-going children can spend the afternoons doing school work under the supervision of two teachers who come from outside the farm. These teachers not only help them to do their work and explain what they might not have understood in school, but also teach them life skills (such as why smoking, drugs and alcohol are bad for kids, healthy eating and sanitary habits, how to prevent pregnancies, entrepreneurial skills etc.), as well as singing, drama, games and sport. This takes place every afternoon between 3 and 6 pm in the community hall.

Last year Pebbles received a sponsorship which supplies all the children in the crèche and ASC with a warm meal and healthy snack, providing the nourishment to enable them to learn better. The community in general supports this project, although there have been some grumbles that the hall is no longer available for parties, due to the many tables, chairs, computers and children’s art work!

Danie Jnr has told us, ‘I remember in the past some children telling me that their little brothers and sisters were tearing up their school books or scribbling in their work, another one told me they do not have a suitable table in their house on which she could do her school work, and during the 71 years that our Steytler family has been farming here only about 10 children managed to finish 12 years of school – all the many others dropped out of school when they were between 14 and 16 years old. Some told me they needed to leave the public school because their parents could not afford the school fees or they wanted to go to work and bring money home. And it is very common for young teenage girls to get pregnant, thus ending their school attendance.

We believe that having the privilege of being land owners comes with the responsibility towards the people who live and work on our land, and that the key to solving all South Africa’s problems (such as poverty, crime, high birth rates, HIV/Aids, overpopulation, lack of water and resources etc.) lies in educating the population.

Hence, in 2002 we started to pay all the public school fees for all the children of all our employees to counter the financial aspect to why our kids were leaving school. But this hardly made a tangible difference and only now, some years since the start of the ASC, do we see a very slow shift in thinking, increasing motivation to complete the twelve school years, an improved learning atmosphere and a few more learners passing the public school end exam.

But this progress is indeed very slow, we will have to have a lot of patience, compassion and endurance. The older farm community is largely uneducated and illiterate and for children to achieve a higher education than their parents might be seen as a threat by the elders, a breaking away from the community; the child who leaves the farm for a tertiary education has to deal with loss of belonging and support and so I personally suspect that it will still take another generation before we will actually see a real shift in the education of our farm community.

In the meantime we have to go on as best as we can… and can afford. The building is made out of wood and hard board and although we have insulated the ceilings, the rooms are extremely hot in summer and cold in winter. I have a special savings account where I collect donations for the school project and I am saving towards two air conditioners, one for the crèche and one for the ASC, which would make studying a lot more pleasant for the children.’

Some further projects:

The Olwethu clinic:

Pebbles also runs the Olwethu clinic on Villiera – Kaapzicht pay R2800 per month so that their workers can go to the clinic to receive first rate medical aid free of charge. The clinic also offers transport, medication, dentistry, birth control etc. The workers also have the opportunity to send family members that don’t work for Kaapzicht at a minimal fee of R60 per visit.

Soccer field:

The estate has built a soccer field on the farm for their workers to be able to play sports on weekends. The Kaapzicht team has won a few trophies over the past years in the Stellenbosch farmers’ league!

The food project:

Kaapzicht have set aside two hectares of land as a vegetable project for their workers. They plant and grow different crops each season which are then shared between the workers for free. They have just planted mielies (sweetcorn) and watermelons which will be ready for Christmas – everyone’s favourite. Other crops grown are potatoes, gem squash, butternut squash, pumpkins, carrots and spinach.

Mini Bus/taxi:

The estate has bought a minibus as a form of transport for their workers to get to town. Most of them either cycle or walk to town 5 km away but now they can be driven for free every Saturday and after work each day. It also transports the soccer team if they are playing an away game.

Farm shop:

Danie Snr started a farm shop 20 years ago so that Kaapzicht workers could receive food on the farm without having to go to town each day. It sells the basics (bread, milk, meat, eggs etc.) at cost price and food can be bought on a book system so that it is always available to them.

Bremerton – Langhorne Creek defined

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

Bremerton isn’t just another Aussie winery; it is the pulse and heartbeat of South Australia’s Langhorne Creek. Owned and run by the Willson family since its inception in 1988, Bremerton has forged an enviable reputation for quality and value whilst at the same time supporting development into new varietal plantings and figure-heading innovation within the region.

I was lucky enough to visit Bremerton last year and had a rare opportunity to meet the Willson family. What I found was a group of people committed to promoting the fruits of their labour, with drive and ambition but at the same time a humble appreciation of their unique terroir in Langhorne Creek. It is unquestionable that winemaker Bec Willson and her sister Lucy steer the Bremerton ship under the guiding eyes of father Craig and mother Mignonne. It really is a family affair combined with genuine pride of place.

Langhorne Creek is south east of Adelaide, not far from the famed vineyards of McLaren Vale. It is a unique region as it sits on the rich soil of the Bremer River flood plain. Fresh cool evening breezes from Lake Alexandrina provide a micro climate of mild to warm summer days and cool evenings, perfect for the long ripening of the grapes. The resultant harvest produces intense and sought after cool climate flavours in the Bremerton wines, which are very much on-trend and beautifully suited to the palates of many modern wine drinkers. The predominant varieties grown are Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, with plantings of Sauvignon Blanc, Verdelho, Chardonnay, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

The winemaking team, headed by family winemaker Rebecca ‘Bec’ Willson has taken the quality of the Bremerton portfolio to new highs. Bec seeks the finest possible estate-grown fruit to craft traditional, full-bodied, full-flavoured, mouth-filling wines that show a consistency of style whilst encouraging the true varietal characteristics to be expressed.

In the cellar, the winery has invested heavily in a premium French and American oak programme using 220 litre barriques to ensure subtle and complementary oak influences. The winery utilises traditional open top fermenters, made from stainless steel and a purpose-built barrel cellar for maturation.

Bec and her Marketing Manager sister Lucy, have focused the family’s wine range on high quality and individual wines. They have given Bremerton a strong foothold in the highly competitive Aussie wine market, with Rebecca’s first label at age 25 (the 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon) winning a trophy and rated Third Best Cabernet in Australia by Winestate magazine. Since then the Willson sisters have worked tirelessly to anchor Bremerton as Langhorne Creek’s strongest force – with exceptional quality Malbec and Fiano coming through the ranks, there is no suggestion they plan to put their feet up any time soon!

Introducing a new face to Frontier Fine Wines!

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

Welcome to Christine Niarchos, who has recently joined the Frontier Fine Wines team. Originally hailing from South Africa, a keen traveller and lover of all things wine, Christine has lived in the UK for over 20 years, yet is still passionate about her homeland and the amazing wines the southern hemisphere has to offer. After twelve years working in recruitment for the Financial Services sector, Christine took the career-changing decision to move into the wine industry and spent three years working at Decanter Magazine as Awards Manager on the Decanter World Wine Awards competition. She holds her WSET Advanced Certificate in Wines & Spirits with Distinction and is currently studying towards her WSET Diploma.

Christine is looking forward to supporting to all our Frontier Fine Wines customers in the future, with your decision making and ordering of the exceptional New World wines Frontier Fine Wines has to offer.

Viña Ventisquero V9 Reserva Range

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

Frontier Fine Wines are delighted to be stocking a new range of Chilean wines from Viña Ventisquero – the V9 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon from the Colchagua Valley and the V9 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc from the Casablanca Valley.

Nine vineyards are involved in the creation process of the V9 range, giving birth to excellent complex wines.

Viña Ventisquero was founded in 1998 and began winemaking in 2000. Today the winery is led by a young creative team of entrepreneurs whose aim is to create distinctive, high quality wines. True to their philosophy of going “a step beyond”, Viña Ventisquero’s modern, avant-garde wines reflect the sheer perfection of the Chilean wine craft, showing character of balance between fruit and oak.

Viña Ventisquero is completely committed to caring for their environment.   Not only do all of their productive processes involve rigorous quality control; they also comply with the strictest environmental protection standards. Independent auditors have granted Viña Ventisquero “Certified Sustainable Wine of Chile” status, Chile’s first ever certification exclusively for the wine industry.

We are offering an introductory 10% discount on our new Viña Ventisquero V9 Reserva range by entering discount code VVV910 at checkout. This offer is valid until Sunday 1st April 2018 and cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers.

 

Why the higher alcohol levels?

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner | Leave a Comment on Why the higher alcohol levels?

Talk often turns to an apparent increase in alcohol by volume, in modern wine. More specifically, talk often arrives with a negative tone as “more mature” individuals hark back to the good old days, where the alcoholic volume of most wines rarely seemed to exceed 12.5%… Indeed, 12.5% alcohol seemed almost as consistent as the 75cl bottle within which the various liquids were contained!  Why are alcohols seemingly so much greater these days?

What changed, where, when and why?!

Rolf Binder The Barrot Family, Julien far left Mollydooker Label close up

Initially I think it is fair to say that Mother Nature has a few things to answer for. As global warming has seemingly fast-tracked in recent years, sending shockwaves through the marginal wine growing regions of the world, the ability to attain phenolic as well as physical ripeness is greatly improved. In short, when you attain full ripeness, potential alcohol increases. The decision to harvest is in the hands of the winemaker – part of their intuition, their ethos and ultimately, their potential genius. In years gone by, making wine could become very much a painting by numbers exercise, regardless of each vintage’s individual characteristic or limitation. Nowadays the modern viticulture and vinification techniques on hand aid and assist growers to enhance their offering naturally, which allows for greater sun exposure and ripeness in the vineyard, which therefore increases potential alcohol. Perhaps higher alcohol is more of a 21st Century phenomenon?

Another phenomenon of the modern wine market place is that of the “critic”. Step forward Mr Parker, a man famous for his attraction to rich, densely-flavoured wine styles. Chasing the critic scores helps to increase a wine’s desirability in the market place and make the growers more money – it seems logical that if your wine appeals to a certain palate, you will be rewarded in points. So why not turn up the dials during production? Stories are rife of “special Parker bottles”, presented to the man himself by unscrupulous wine producers during en primeur tastings. Seemingly a particular barrel had been manipulated to present the château in the best light possible, to ensure a high score. Raisening of grapes on the vine, particularly in St-Emilion, has also hit the news. Bordeaux’s take on Amarone? Seemingly so….

Beyond production, selection of varietal as well as trends towards the New World have altered perception of potential alcohols. Grenache is a variety which has high potential alcohol, as is Mourvèdre. These varieties are finding a place in more and more blends around the world. As far as regions go, I don’t believe that there is a wine-loving individual alive who doesn’t associate higher than average alcohol with… say… Barossa Shiraz. One of Australia’s leading regions for the cultivation of the country’s most famous red grape variety, it is synonymous with bold, richly-fruited, concentrated styles with a higher than usual alcohol content. Recently I read an interview with Julian Barrot of Domaine Barroche in Châteauneuf du Pape. As a region it too has had its critics when it comes to alcohol content. Julian’s reaction was a simple one;

“For us, the alcohol level is not a concern. What is very important is to pick up the grapes when they’re perfectly ripe, and in this case, if you pick up healthy grapes with the right ripeness, you will be able to make a balanced wine and you will not feel the alcohol, even if it’s more than 15 degrees…. Sometimes we will even harvest a plot twice, if one part is ready and the other part is not ready. In this case, you’re able to have very balanced wines, and you don’t feel the alcohol level. People who taste our wines will not feel the alcohol level.”

Back in the Barossa briefly, and following Julian Barrot’s lead above, Rolf Binder is a grower who retains femininity in his Shiraz which is largely unequalled in Barossa. He is a genius with a deft touch who produces wines of controlled opulence, full of depth, character and which are finely balanced on a vinous knife-edge. They have heady alcohol content, sure, but they have freshness, tannin, vigour and life. They hold the expansiveness of the finest côte-rôtie with a weightlessness on the palate that compares with the very greatest wines on earth. At 14.5% alcohol, Rolf’s 2002 Hanisch Shiraz was utterly beguiling and absorbing. One of the single greatest new world reds I have ever tasted, and 100% in balance. With lower alcohol in the glass, perhaps it would only have been a shadow of itself? It would no longer remain complete and therefore project merely a dilution of the wine’s greatness?

Perhaps modern wine drinkers who wish to push their palates and test the boundaries of their senses, look for extremes of fruit expression and density as a reward for their endeavours. An expression which is fairly muted within the wine trade is “talk dry, drink sweet”. The rise of Amarone in the UK, as well as Argentinean Malbec show that the UK consumer looks for boldly-flavoured, alcoholic wines with richness often more akin to a melted bar of Dairy Milk. They seem up for the fight that a blockbuster red seems to offer. Mollydooker in Australia’s McLaren Vale produce stunningly concentrated reds which, with alcohols often in excess of 16% alcohol, manage to retain impressive balance in the glass. These are late harvest wines which have been managed in the vineyard as much as they have in the cellar. They are fruit forward, immediate and explosive in their fruit concentration. No other McLaren Vale grower can match, or tries to copy, the lead of Mollydooker, however, their brand is in huge demand around the world. By delaying their harvest date as much as they possibly can, Mollydooker can craft these black, brooding berries into unique wine. Yes they spark controversy wherever they are opened, but why not? Perhaps modern palates cry out for the sweetness, body and texture afforded by higher alcohol.

For those wine lovers who dream of alcohol back at the 12.5% level, then there are always options out there. Often, by picking your region carefully you can enhance your chances of success. Elgin in the cool climbs of South Africa’s Western Cape cultivates aromatic white varieties such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It also produces fantastic Pinot Noir and delicate Merlot. Zingy freshness and purity of fruit expression are the trademarks of growers such as Catherine Marshall and Paul Cluver Wines. Minerality, tension, verve and… lower alcohol are all there. Truly modern expressions for the modern wine drinker.

Ultimately, the wonder of wine is that no two bottles are ever the same. High alcohol doesn’t automatically mean a lack of balance, as much as lower alcohol doesn’t necessarily correspond to high quality.

Celebrate Drink Chenin Day

Posted on | by Vandenh Horner

To celebrate Day we are offering a 10% discount on all our delicious Chenin Blanc wines until Sunday 17th June 2018! Use the discount code FFWChenin10 at checkout to receive 10% off your purchases and enjoy a delicious glass of chilled Chenin Blanc.